Habitation Bellevue rums, the finesse of Marie-Galante

5 July 2023 | Interviews & Meetings
Habitation Bellevue rums, the finesse of Marie-Galante

Joint interview with Guillaume Damoiseau, metropolitan export manager for Habitation Bellevue rums, and Dimitri Pérez, Managing Director of Apotheka, importer of Habitation Bellevue rums in metropolitan France.

The specificity of the rums from this proudly Marie-Galantaise distillery is to exploit its white agricole rum under the Domaine de Bellevue brand and/or in bulk via its shareholder, the Bardinet/La Martiniquaise group. Old rums, such as V.O, V.S.O.P, 6 years, 10 years or 12 years, vintages, reserves of the Damoiseau family and until recently only accessible to visitors of the distillery, are in full revival in metropolitan France. They are marketed under the Habitation Bellevue - 1821 - brand. The distillery and its Habitation, described as eco-positive, were given a little less than 2 years ago, their own cellar (until then installed in Guadeloupe) thus auguring more logistical facilities and therefore developing " products" in the years to come. A breath of fresh air, a rebirth for Habitation Bellevue, Marie-Galante and its rums.

Hello, thank you for granting us this interview. Habitation Bellevue proudly displays the number "1821" on the label of its bottles. What does it refer to?

Guillaume Damoiseau: 1821 is the date of construction of the windmill that has become our emblem since today, very few windmills are in working order in the West Indies. In 2007, this mill was completely restored.

Dimitri Pérez: A former sugar refinery built in 1821, operating at the time thanks to its mill, the Bellevue distillery in Marie-Galante began distilling rum then called Magalda – in reference to “Maria Galanda” (nickname of one of the vessels of Christophe Colomb who discovered the island) – from 1937 after its acquisition by the Godefroy family in 1924. It is managed by Gabriel Godefroy and then his son Albert. In 1940 Bellevue was the largest distillery on the island. After the war, Albert Godefroy remains the only one to bottle his rum on Marie-Galante, he produces and distributes his "MAGALDA" rum.

In 2001, the distillery was sold to la Martiniquaise/Bardinet. The largest production unit on the island is now managed by Hubert Damoiseau, grand-nephew of Albert Godefroy. The group is reinvesting in the production device by building a new distillery right next to the old one.

Can you present the distillery to us today in terms of production so that we can measure what it represents in Guadeloupe?

GD: With a production volume of 1,600,000 liters of rum, the Bellevue distillery in Marie-Galante is the 3rd largest producer, after Damoiseau and Bologne.

DP: These volumes concern almost exclusively those of white Agricole rums (Bardinet/La Martiniquaise) and those of white Domaine de Bellevue. As far as the old rums of the Habitation Bellevue are concerned, the limited volumes are only intended for sales at the Habitation shop, those for consumption in Marie-Galante, Guadeloupe and exclusively in mainland France through APOTHEKA . We are talking about rare old rums (the decanters are numbered), not exceeding 5000 bottles, all references combined, in mainland France. The cellar will eventually (in 2 years), have an aging capacity of 1000 barrels of between 200 and 400L each.

Bellevue

The Bellevue estate is an eco-positive site. Can you please explain to us what this means?

GD: This means that at the end of the distillation, the energy balance is positive, thanks to the production of a photovoltaic farm of 2 MWatts, which represents the electricity consumption of 30% of Marie Galante. Added to this is the optimal management of all resources during production: the bagasse is burned to power the 118-year-old steam engine, driving the first three mills.

The vinasses are treated by an aerobic process in order to degrade the organic matter resulting from the distillation. They are subsequently used as agricultural water in the cane fields.

Basin bottom mud rich in fertilizing elements is spread in the sugar cane fields.

The oils and waters used in the distillery are depolluted.

bellevue distillery marie-galante

Your aged rums are produced from agricole rum and molasses rum. Why did you make this choice of blend?

GD: This choice allows us to be freer and more creative: we have always worked above all on the organoleptic qualities of our rums. We can thus make blends that allow us to seek out these aromas that are sometimes spicy, sometimes vanilla and sometimes peppery rather than highlighting a simple number of years of aging, a plot, or a specific barrel, which on the one hand does not always reflect the taste of a product, and on the other hand is not a guarantee of quality.

We have an exceptional VO and VSOP because we use ex bourbon barrels that are small and particularly burnt. Our 1821 range is finished in an ex-cognac cask to provide additional finesse and complexity. Thus, we perfectly master the aromas of each of our products from one vintage to another, and from one year to another.

If we take the example of Habitation Bellevue 6-year-old rum, how could we describe it?

DP: Habitation Bellevue 6-year-old rum surprises with its freshness and the intensity of the aromas of fresh exotic fruits that it expresses. Its entry is suave and smooth. Notes of orange peel, maracuja and fresh lychee followed by drier fruits such as currants or compote (apple) follow. The spices appear in the middle of the mouth accompanying a controlled rising heat. The fat ensures a quiet descent towards a pastry side and fresh for its age. Incredible length with endless reminiscences of fresh exotic fruits.

The 12-year-old carafe is certainly one of your most beautiful bottles. Can you please tell us about its taste characteristics?

GD: Like the other 1821s, these are vintage and numbered bottles. Bottling and labeling are done by hand at Marie Galante.

On the nose, the 12 year old reveals aromas of exotic fruits, leather and toasted wood. On the palate, it is generous, it coats the palate with candied fruit, honey, sweet spices and dark chocolate. The finish is very long and suave on cooked sugar, with a slightly smoky note.

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Interview by

Matthieu Lange
Matthieu Lange
Conseiller en spiritueux